
A galley kitchen works on one simple principle: two runs of units facing each other, with a clear corridor between them. Get the corridor right and everything else follows. Aim for 100–120cm between the two runs. Below 100cm and you will be shuffling sideways with a hot pan; above 130cm and you lose the efficiency that makes a galley so good in the first place. Measure at the tightest point, not the widest — radiator valves, door handles, a protruding boiler cupboard and the swing of the fridge door all eat into your working space.
Also check that appliance doors open fully. A fridge needs roughly 90 degrees before the salad drawer will slide out, and a dishwasher door needs to drop clear of your feet. If a full-size appliance would foul the opposite run, that is your cue to go slimmer rather than squeeze. Standard base units are 60cm deep, but 50cm-deep carcasses are widely available and buy you precious centimetres without making the room feel like a tunnel. Where the layout allows, keep the sink, hob and fridge in a tight triangle so you are never walking more than a couple of paces between them.
The single biggest gain in a narrow kitchen comes from appliances that do the same job in less width.
Where the layout truly will not take a washing machine or tumble dryer, consider stacking them in a tall housing, or moving laundry to a bathroom or utility corner and reclaiming the kitchen space entirely.
In a narrow kitchen, worktop is the scarcest commodity. Rather than trying to find more of it, make the worktop you have adjustable.
Drawers beat cupboards almost everywhere in a narrow room. They open into the corridor rather than trapping you in front of a hinged door, and you can see the whole contents at a glance.
When floor space is fixed, height is your friend. Take wall cabinets to the ceiling, adding a top row of shallow cupboards for occasional items — Christmas dishes, preserving jars, the slow cooker. A shallow cabinet at 30cm deep is comfortable over a worktop; anything deeper will crowd your head as you chop.
Below the wall units, use the splashback zone. A rail with hooks for utensils, a magnetic knife strip and a couple of narrow open shelves for oils and spices keep the worktop clear. Consider a slim tambour unit to hide the small appliances you use daily, so the kettle and toaster disappear behind a sliding door. Don't forget the end of the run and the space above the door frame — both are legitimate storage spots, provided nothing blocks the walkway.
Narrow rooms respond well to continuity. Run the same flooring from the kitchen into the adjoining space if you can, and lay plank or tile in line with the length of the room to draw the eye down the corridor. Pale cabinets and a light worktop bounce light around; a mirrored or glossy splashback does the same job more dramatically.
Handleless doors or slim bar handles reduce visual clutter and stop you catching a hip as you pass. Under-cabinet LED strips are worth every penny — they light the worktop properly, which makes a tight surface feel far more generous than a single ceiling light ever will.
Plan meals around the space you have. One-tray bakes, traybakes of roasted vegetables, a big pot of something on the hob and a salad assembled on the pull-out board mean you are not juggling four pans across two hobs. Do your chopping before you start cooking and clear as you go, keeping one stretch of worktop permanently free as a landing zone.
When guests arrive, treat the worktop as a buffet rather than a dining table. Set out plates at one end, drinks on the trolley, and let people serve themselves in a one-way flow so nobody meets head-on in the middle. Fold-out stools, a drop-leaf table and good lighting turn a galley from a corridor you cook in into a room people genuinely enjoy being in.
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